If you’ve ever watched a Chinese costume drama such as Empresses in the Palace (甄嬛传) or Nirvana in Fire (琅琊榜), you were probably captivated by the stunning costumes and exquisite hairstyles. Characters in these dramas often wear intricate hair ornaments like huasheng, buyao, and mo’e—you might not know their names, but you’ve likely seen these dazzling accessories. This article will explain them in detail in the main body.
They are more than just decoration but an integral part of ancient Chinese culture, embodying rich historical, ceremonial, and aesthetic values. These ornaments enhance the characters’ appearance and tell fascinating cultural stories.
With its long history and vibrant heritage, China has developed various traditional hair accessories, each with a distinctive style and cultural significance.
In this article, we’ll introduce the five most common types, guiding you through the world of ancient Chinese hair adornments and the meanings behind them. From simple hairpins to complicated phoenix crowns, every piece reflects the wisdom and aesthetic sensibility of the ancients. By understanding these accessories, you’ll gain a deeper appreciation for the details in costume dramas and a richer insight into the traditional Chinese culture.
#1 Insert-type Hair Accessories
Insert-type hair accessories are the most fundamental kind of hair ornament. Primarily used to secure hair buns, they also serve a decorative purpose. These ornaments have evolved from simple straight pins to intricate multi-layered designs, reflecting the ancient Chinese pursuit of beauty and the refinement of traditional craftsmanship.
| Category | Ji | Zan | Chai | Buyao |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Origin | Originated in the Neolithic period | Emerged in the Shang–Zhou period, used throughout dynasties | Flourished in the Tang and famous for the “flower tree” style | Used by the elite in Han–Tang period and popularized in Song |
| Materials | Bone, wood, jade | Gold, silver, jade, bronze, and bone | Gold, silver, jade, and tortoiseshell | Gold, jade, pearls, and kingfisher feathers |
| Structure | Single straight pin | Single long pin | Double-pin and crossed design | Zan/Chai with dangling ornaments |
| Cultural Significance | Symbol of womanhood; used in “Ji Ceremony” (to celebrate the 15th birthday of girls) | Symbol of social status—jade for nobles and bone for commoners | Token of love; the “parting pin” tradition to convey love | Graceful movement; an integration of visual and auditory elegance |
Ji (笄)
Pronounced like “ji”, ji is the earliest form of insert-type hair accessory. It was usually a simple and straight pin used to secure the hair. Commonly made from bamboo, wood, or bone, and later from metal, ji functions much like today’s hairpins. It was a basic yet essential tool for ancient women to manage their hair.
Zan (簪)
Evolved from ji, zan is a more refined hair accessory, usually featuring simple decorations such as floral patterns or small ornaments. Hairpins of this type come in various shapes—straight, curved, or uniquely designed. You can think of zan as an elegant and more decorative version of a modern hairpin, practically meaningful and beautiful. Compared with ji, zan places a greater emphasis on aesthetics and is more suited for daily wear.
Chai (钗)
Comprised of two zan pieces arranged in a shape resembling the Chinese character for “person” (人), chai features more elaborate decorations, often inlaid with gemstones, pearls, or finely carved patterns. It can secure hair buns and boasts strong ornamental significance, especially among ancient women. Similar to the luxurious bridal headdresses worn by brides today, chai symbolizes beauty and elegance. Compared with zan, chai has a more ornate design and is more suitable for formal occasions.
Buyao (步摇)
Buyao is the most exquisite type of interlocking hair ornament with features like movable decorations such as beads, jade, or metal pieces that gently sway with the wearer’s movements when walking—hence the name “Buyao,” which means “step shake.” Traditionally for noblewomen or ladies of the palace, Buyao symbolizes nobility and luxury. Just picture an ancient noblewoman at a palace banquet, her hair accessory’s beads softly swaying and sparkling as she walks, delivering the enchanting charm of Buyao.
The designs of interlocking hair accessories evolved from simple to intricate, reflecting ancient craftsmen’s wisdom and pursuit of beauty. These ornaments securely hold hair in place and enhance the wearer’s aura and elegance with exquisite decoration. From simple bamboo buyao to jewel-encrusted hairpins and buyao, the evolution of these hairpieces showcases the aesthetic changes and craftsmanship progress of ancient societies.
#2 Crown-type Hair Accessories
Crown-type hair accessories are ancient China’s most ceremonial and symbolically significant hairpieces. They were typically worn during special formal occasions such as weddings, investitures, and court assemblies.
| Type | Wearer | Main Ornamentation | Occasions | Features |
|---|---|---|---|---|
Fengguan (phoenix crown) | Empresses, Consorts, and Noblewomen | Dragons, Phoenixes, Kingfisher Feathers, Pearls, and Gemstones | Investiture, Weddings, Court Assemblies | Strict Hierarchy; Number of Dragons/Phoenixes Indicating ranks |
| Golden Crown | Emperors, Princes, and High-ranking Male Nobles | Cast Gold, Dragon Motifs, and Jewels | Enthronement, Rituals, and Major Ceremonies | Male Exclusive, Symbol of Sovereignty, and Dignified Style |
| Buyao Crown | Court Noblewomen | Pearls, gems, metal, and other movable ornaments | Important ceremonies and court banquets | Ornaments sway gently when walking, emphasizing dynamic beauty; extremely luxurious |
| Buzhang Guan | Noblewomen of the Tang and Song Dynasties | Golden Floral Trees, Beaded and Curtains, Veils | more commonly used for trips and outings, rather than formal court occasions | Semi-face covering design delivering nobility and charm; visual and audio enjoyment |
Phoenix Crown (凤冠)
Similar to Western crowns, this ceremonial headdress is for empresses, princesses, or noblewomen on significant occasions. It is typically themed on the phoenix and adorned with pearls, gemstones, and various precious materials. The phoenix’s design is extremely intricate, making it lifelike and symbolizing nobility and authority. In ancient times, only royal women could wear the phoenix crown, representing the highest status.
Golden Crowns (金冠)
As the name suggests, these crowns are primarily made of gold and usually worn by the royal or high-ranking nobles. They are magnificently decorated and often inlaid with precious stones and pearls to show the wearer’s honorable status. A golden crown is not only a decorative item but also a status symbol for people of the highest status. Compared with the phoenix crown, the golden crown has a relatively simple design, but it is still highly decorative and symbolic.
Buyao Crown (步摇冠)
Buyao crown is an exceptionally ornate headdress traditionally worn by noblewomen in the imperial court, especially on important ceremonial occasions. Its most distinctive feature lies in the movable beads, tassels, or metal ornaments attached to the crown, which sway gently as the wearer moves—hence the name “buyao,” meaning “step-shake.”
Often inlaid with pearls, gemstones, and other precious materials, the Buyao crown showcases exquisite craftsmanship and symbolizes the wearer’s noble status and luxurious lifestyle. Compared with phoenix and gold crowns, Buyao crown emphasizes a sense of dynamic beauty. It was especially favored during court banquets and formal events, where its graceful motion enhanced the wearer’s elegance and presence.
Bu Zhang Guan (步障冠)
Bu Zhang Crown is a unique type of headwear that essentially combines a hat and a veil. It is primarily designed to cover the face, creating a mysterious and solemn appearance. Although its decoration is not as extravagant as other crowns, its distinctive design makes it a remarkable ancient hair ornament. In the existing terracotta figurines and frescoes, Bu Zhang Crown often appears with a hanging veil, displaying a kind of light and enigmatic beauty.
The Bu Zhang Crown evolved from the mì lí (幂篱) of the Tang Dynasty, through the wéi mào (帷帽) of the Song Dynasty, and finally developed into the yǎn jì (䯼髻) style in the Ming Dynasty. It is mainly made from cloth, silk, or gauze, resembling traditional Chinese head coverings rather than metal crowns. Unlike other crowns, such as bù yáo guān (步摇冠), which features dynamic metal ornaments, Bu Zhang Crown emphasizes a dignified and reserved aesthetics through its fabric materials.
The strong craftsmanship of these hair ornaments—from the phoenix design of the phoenix crown to the gold inlays of the gold crown—is extraordinarily exquisite, reflecting the exceptional skills of ancient artisans. The intricate designs and lavish decorations of these crown-type hair accessories manifest the wearer’s identity and status and embody the etiquette and hierarchical system of ancient society. These hair ornaments were indispensable for ceremonial occasions, forming an important part of ancient cultural heritage.
#3 Flower-shaped and Ornamental Hair Decoration
Flower-shaped and decorative hair accessories are the most delicate and feminine types of ancient Chinese hair ornaments. They were primarily used to decorate the forehead, temples, or hair buns, making wearers appear softer and more beautiful.
| Type | Wearing Position | Main Materials | Design Features | Popular Dynasties | Functions & Cultural Meanings |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Huasheng | Forehead / Hair Bun | Gold foil, jade, and feather | Floral patterns, flat and decorative pieces | From Han to Tang | Blessing and warding off evil, symbolizing good fortune |
| Dianhua | Hair bun / Temples | Gold, silver, jade, and shells | Plum blossom 3D shapes; detachable | From Tang to Song | Daily noblewomen’s adornment, highlighting refined aesthetics |
| Huadian (花钿) | Forehead / Cheeks / Bun | Face (Gold foil/pearls/paper sheets); Head (Gold, Silver, Jade, and Jewellery) | Floral, butterfly, and other appliqués with flexible forms | Wei-Jin to the Ming-Qing dynasty | Makeup combined with hair ornaments, symbolizing beauty and vitality; commonly seen at weddings, banquets, and other formal occasions |
| Yanbin | Temples on both sides | Gold and silver threads, and gemstones | Cloud patterns or round floral shapes, symmetrical | From Ming to Qing | Fixing side hair, shaping face contour, reflecting ancient women’s “beauty shaping” practice |
Huasheng (华胜)
This flower-shaped hair ornament is typically made from metal, jade, or silk, showing exquisite craftsmanship and vibrant colors. Inspired by natural flowers, Huasheng symbolizes beauty and vitality. Imagine a delicate and exquisite flower decorating a wearer’s head, adding a touch of elegance to them. Compared with the Dianhua and Yanbin, Huasheng features a more three-dimensional shape and is more suitable for formal occasions.
Dianhua (钿花)
A small and decorative hair accessory typically shaped like petals or leaves, often inlaid with precious stones or pearls. Dianhua are delicate and exquisite, commonly used to embellish buns or braids, adding a subtle touch of beauty. Similar to modern hair clips, they may be small, but they greatly enhance the hairstyle’s appearance. Compared with Huasheng, Dianhua has finer details and is more suited for everyday wear.
This is a small ornamental hair accessory, usually shaped like flower petals or leaves, set with gems or pearls. The dianhua is petite and elegant, often used to decorate buns or sideburns, adding delicate detail. Like modern small hair clips, despite their size, they add noticeable highlights to hairstyles. Compared with the Huasheng, dianhua has finer decoration and is more suitable for daily wear.
Huadian (花钿)
Huadian is a traditional Chinese decorative accessory typically applied to the forehead or cheeks. It can also be used as part of a hairstyle. Made from materials such as gold foil, colored paper, or gemstones, these ornaments come in a variety of shapes, including flowers, butterflies, and other motifs inspired by nature.
Highly ornamental, huadian adds a vibrant touch to the face or hair, highlighting the wearer’s elegance and charm. Compared with huasheng (华胜) and dianhua (钿花), huadian is more versatile—it serves not only as a hair accessory but also as a form of facial adornment.
Often worn during weddings, banquets, and other formal occasions, huadian symbolizes beauty, vitality, and auspiciousness, reflecting both aesthetic taste and cultural identity in traditional Chinese fashion.
Yanbin (Covering Sideburns; 掩鬓)
Yanbin is a hair accessory to cover the sideburns. It is typically semi-circular or fan-shaped and crafted from materials such as metal, silk, or feathers. The design is exquisite, often featuring embroidery or inlaid decorations, which effectively shape and enhance the contours of the face.
Similar to modern earrings, Yanbin usually delivers decorative and contouring purposes. Compared with Huasheng and Dianhua, Yanbin offers stronger coverage and is especially suitable for refining facial features.
The designs of this category of hair accessories are mainly inspired by flowers and birds in nature, featuring vivid and poetic shapes. Their exquisite forms and rich colours beautifully express the wearer’s softness and elegance. These hair accessories were traditionally used in women’s hairstyles, especially during weddings, banquets, and other special occasions, adding endless charm and grace to wearers.
#4 Hair Accessories for Styling and Decoration
Originally being practical tools for arranging hair, these accessories gradually evolved into important decorative items. They retain their functions while adding decorative appeals, displaying the ingenuity and creativity of ancient craftsmen.
Comb (Shūbì; 梳篦)
Originally used for grooming hair, the comb later evolved into a decorative accessory inserted into hair buns. Combs come in various shapes, such as horseshoe-shaped or crescent-shaped, and often feature exquisite carvings of clouds, flowers, or animals. They are practical tools and symbols of status, especially those inlaid with precious gems. Compared with plug combs, combs have more diverse shapes and are suitable for daily grooming and decoration.
Plug Comb (Chāshū; 插梳)
It is a special type of comb that is typically used to secure hair buns in place. Plug combs usually have more intricate designs and are often adorned with gems or pearls, making them both highly decorative and practical. Like modern hairpins, they hold hairstyles securely while adding ornamental value. Compared with combs, plug combs are more decorative and better suited for formal occasions.
Combs were initially designed to serve practical purposes such as grooming, but they have gradually incorporated more ornamental elements. From the cloud-patterned combs of the Han Dynasty to the gem-inlaid combs of the Tang Dynasty, and then to the crescent-shaped picks of the Song Dynasty, these hair accessories present the exquisite craftsmanship of ancient artisans and reflect the social trends and aesthetic values of their time.
#5 Binding-band Hair Accessory
Originally used to tie up hair to keep warm, the binding band hair accessory has gradually evolved into an important decorative piece that combines practicality with elegance. Its design is simple and functional, yet retains a sense of beauty.
Mò’é (Forehead Band; 抹额)
Mò’é is a hair accessory used to hold hair in place on the forehead, usually made of cloth or silk, and often decorated with beads, jade, or embroidery. Its simple yet practical design secures the hair while enhancing the wearer’s elegance. Similar to today’s headbands, it serves both functional and decorative purposes. Different materials and styles are chosen for various occasions: plain cloth or silk mò’é is ideal for daily wear, while jeweled metal mò’é is reserved for formal events such as weddings and banquets. Historically, mò’é was often worn by palace women or noble ladies to signify status.
Tóugū (Headband; 头箍)
Tóugū is a circular or semicircular hair accessory made from materials like metal, jade, or wood, often intricately carved with floral or cloud patterns. Compared with mò’é, Tóugū is more three-dimensional and is used to secure the entire hair bun rather than just the forehead. Suitable for all occasions, from daily wear to formal events, Tóugū is both practical and elegant, adding a refined touch to the wearer’s hairstyle.
The design of band-style hair accessories originated from the simple function of tying hair and gradually incorporated more decorative elements. Starting from plain cloth bands, they evolved into embellished mò’é (forehead bands) and tóugū (headbands) adorned with pearls and jade. These accessories were practical yet highly aesthetic, widely used by women, children, and folk warriors, making them versatile and functional. The decorative styles of mò’é and tóugū varied with the occasion, ranging from simple daily wear to ornate formal adornments, each reflecting the wearer’s unique temperament.
Conclusion
The diversity of ancient Chinese hair accessories—from practical hairpins and power-symbolizing phoenix crowns to delicate floral ornaments and functional yet elegant bands—not only showcases the exquisite craftsmanship of ancient artisans but also reflects the rich social and cultural environments of the era. The stories behind these ornaments work like a vivid historical scroll, offering modern people a glimpse into the etiquette, aesthetics, and life philosophies of ancient China. Through these small adornments, we can appreciate the beauty of traditional craftsmanship and experience the profound and unique charm of Chinese culture.