In ancient China, hairstyles were of vital importance for both men and women. Jet-black and thick hair is not only an essential element of our body but also a way to enhance the beauty of a person. A suitable hairstyle can improve one’s appearance and mirror one’s identity and temperament.
Compared to the hairstyles of ancient Chinese men, the hairstyles of ancient Chinese women were more varied. This article will elaborate on the 29 most popular and common hairstyles of women in ancient China.
Select an Ancient Period You are Interested
#1 Qin-Han Periods
Compared with previous eras, women in the Qin and Han periods designed more diverse categories of buns, which were usually combed highly and massively, conveying women’s elegance. These female hairstyles were top on the head, reflecting wearers’ high self-esteem and noble status. There were various high buns, such as tall and erect Lingyun Ji and gentle Chuiyun Ji, showing Qin and Han women’s pursuit of beauty and solid skills and techniques in hair combing.
Besides, there were also imaginative hairstyles like Feixian Ji and Duoma Ji, which went beyond the features of traditional hairstyles and adopted more innovative and brand-new aesthetic styles.
Meanwhile, Qin and Han women were also proficient in using hairpins like Buyao[1]. These hairpins significantly promoted the artistic value of women’s hairstyles during this period, enhancing their vividness and diversity.
Jiuhuan Xian Ji (九鬟仙髻)
Jiuhuan Xian Ji is a hairstyle that originated in the Qin and Han Dynasties.
Jiuhuan (“nine rings” in English) refers to arranging the hair into rings; the more rings, the more honorable. At the top of each ring is a thin piece of metal decorated with precious jewelry such as pearls and gems. This hairstyle is elegant and ornate and can emphasize a woman’s temperament (grace) and style.
This hairstyle was very popular among aristocratic women and considered a noble hairstyle.
Lingyun Ji (凌云髻)
Lingyun Ji appeared in the Qin and Han Dynasties.
Lingyun Ji is a classical category of high bun and single ring hairstyle featuring its towering and voluminous shape, delivering a sense of elegance and dignity to people, so the nobles of the imperial palace usually used it.
Chuiyun Ji (垂云髻)
As a popular hairstyle during the Western Han Dynasty, Chuiyun Ji captivated noblewomen with its unique charm.
This bun is not merely about letting the hair hang loosely but meticulously styled into a refined and smooth shape. The ends of Chuiyun Ji fall gently to the shoulders like languid clouds in the sky, showcasing the ethereal style while maintaining a quiet elegance.
Chuiyun Ji not only showcased women’s taste and pursuit of beauty but also became one of the important fashion symbols of the era.
Duoma Ji (堕马髻)
Duoma Ji is a hairstyle that originated in the Han Dynasty. According to Wuxing Zhi (五行志), this type of bun was first created by the wife of Liang Ji (梁冀), a consort kin of the Eastern Han Dynasty.
Duoma Ji is named for its resemblance to the posture of falling from a horse. When styling, women gather their hair at the back of the head, twist it into a large, dome-shaped bun like a horse’s belly, and finally drape it to the side or at the back of the head.
This hairstyle not only displays a charming allure but also appears delicate and cute, making it a common choice for daily grooming among ancient women.
Shuanghuan Wangxian Ji (双环望仙髻)
The Shuanghuan Wangxian Ji originated in the Qin and Han dynasties and was popular in the early and prosperous Tang dynasties.
The beauty of this hairstyle lies in the clever combination of wigs and natural hair. The unique double-ring design vividly showcases young women’s youthful vitality and charm.
The hairstyle is worn in a knot-and-ring style. Women first divide hair into two sections and tie it into two solid buns on each side of the head as the foundation.
Next, they skillfully curve the remaining hair into two elegant ring shapes and tuck the ends behind the ears, thus blending perfectly with the overall hairstyle to create a harmonious and unified aesthetic.
This hairstyle is both exquisite and elegant, pleasing to the eye. Usually, this hairstyle is more popular among young women than women of middle age and above.
Pan Huan Ji (盘桓髻)
Pan Huan Ji is another hair bun that originated in the Qin and Han Dynasties.
This bun is created when a woman carefully winds her hair into rings or spirals skillfully intertwined and folded at the top of the head to form a stable hairstyle that does not easily fall apart. Its unique shape and stability often convey a sense of competence and importance of wearers.
Throughout different historical periods, Pan Huan Ji has enjoyed widespread popularity among women of different classes.
For example, during the Western Han Dynasty, Pan Huan Ji was trendy among the women in Chang’an.
In the Tang Dynasty, although hairstyle fashions changed, Pan Huan Ji was still widely adopted by court ladies and ordinary women.
This hair bun not only reflected the beauty and elegance of ancient women but also demonstrated their wisdom and skill in hairstyle design.
Fanwan Ji (反绾髻)
Fanwan Ji originated in the Han Dynasty and became one of the most popular hairstyles among women in the early Tang Dynasty.
When a woman styles Fanwan Ji, she first combs her hair backward and secures it at a high position. Then, she ties it tightly with silk thread. Next, she divides her hair into several sections and twists them in reverse to create various styles. Some styles resemble outspread wings, while others are shaped like single or double blades.
This type of hairstyle is stable and not easily disheveled, displaying women’s positive minds, so it was especially popular among court dancers and musicians in the early Tang Dynasty.
Shuangchui Huang Ji (双垂环髻)
Shuangchui Huan Ji, a classic hairstyle, has been famous in China since the Han Dynasty and continued to be favored by women through the Ming Dynasty.
This hairstyle is created by dividing the hair into two sections, forming a bun on each side of the head, and drape each bun to shape a ring. It is commonly worn by unmarried women, maidservants, and young female attendants.
Shuangya Ji (双丫髻)
Shuangya Ji originated in the Qin and Han dynasties and became popular during the Song Dynasty.
It is simple to wear a Shuangya Ji. Firstly, part the hair from the top and smooth it to each side, securing it near the ears. Then, twist each side into symmetrical chignons. The forehead is typically adorned with hanging strands of hair, commonly known as bangs.
Shuangya Ji, primarily designed for maids and maidservants, is also popular for young girls in folklore. Later, the bun is often used to refer to young girls. Childish girls rolled up Shuangya Ji, implying that they would grow up quickly, strongly and healthily.
#2 The Wei, Jin, and North-South Dynasties
The Wei, Jin, and North-South Dynasties period was a time of turmoil and change.
During this period, there have been remarkable progress in wig technology, and various wig buns appeared in an endless stream. At the same time, due to the prevalence of Buddhist and Taoist transcendentalism, inspired by the images of fairies and celestial beings in religious paintings, many women developed a fondness for high and slightly tilted buns, leading to the creation of hairstyles such as the “Lingshe Ji” and “Feitian Ji”.
The common feature of these buns is that the hair is combed on top of the head, divided into multiple strands, and then coiled into a variety of hairstyles.
Lingshe Ji (灵蛇髻)
Lingshe Ji is a hairstyle for ancient women. The Cailan Zazhi (采兰杂志) records that this bun was invented by Lady Zhen (文昭甄皇后), the wife of Emperor Wen of Wei (曹丕).
Lingshe Ji is a coiled and twisted hair bun. Its shape is like a swimming snake winding, extraordinarily flexible and dynamic, vivid and beautiful.
When combing this hair bun, a woman needs to divide her hair into several strands and then use her hands to carefully coil the strands into loops as if weaving a twist, and then twist it on the top, the side, and the front of the head.
This hairstyle was primarily worn by court ladies and women of the upper classes.
Shizi Ji (十字髻)
Shizi Ji was a popular hairstyle during the Wei, Jin, and Northern and Southern Dynasties, but it gradually became rare in later dynasties.
This bun is named after the cross shape, resembling the Chinese character “十.”
When styling, a woman would first coil her hair into a cross-shaped bun, then wind the remaining hair into buns on each side of the head, allowing them to hang naturally to the shoulders, and finally secure the hairstyle with a hairpin.
Jinghu Ji (惊鹄髻)
The name “Jinghu Ji” comes from the image of a frightened swan spreading its wings and trying to fly.
This hairstyle originated in the Wei Dynasty and was favored by women in the court of Emperor Wen of Wei (魏文帝). Over time, it spread from the court to the general populace, passing through the Western and Eastern Jin, North and South Dynasties, and into the Sui and Tang Dynasties. It remained popular in the bustling city of Chang’an, becoming a fashion trend of the era.
The uniqueness of this chignon lies in its double-high design, where the hair is pulled up and braided into a shape resembling a swan spreading its wings. This style combines elegance and grace, making it visually pleasing and refined.
Feitian Ji (飞天髻)
Feitian Ji is a kind of high bun with three rings, which started in the North and South Dynasties and was common among women in the Western Regions[2].
It is combed in such a way that women first divide their hair into three parts, bind each part with a silk ribbon, roll it up into three high rings, and then put on a beautiful hair ornament.
With the revival of Hanfu culture, ancient women’s hairstyles such as Feitian Ji garnered increasing attention and appreciation. In modern society, many people try to learn and style ancient hairstyles such as Feitian Ji to feel the charm of traditional culture.
Luo Ji (螺髻)
Luo Ji (Spiral Coil), also known as Cui Ji (翠髻), is named for its shape, resembling a delicate conch shell. This hairstyle originated in the Jin Dynasty and peaked in the prosperous Tang Dynasty when it became a popular fashion trend. This bun remained a favorite among women even in the Song and Ming Dynasties.
To create this hairstyle, women separate their hair into several strands, coil them in a spiral pattern along the top of the head, and secure them in place, forming a three-dimensional bun. This hairstyle features visual dynamism and beauty and showcases a woman’s refined elegance.
With its intricate shape and elegant style, Luo Ji was well-received among the ancient upper class, especially court ladies and nobles.
#3 Sui, Tang, and Five Dynasties
During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, especially the Tang Dynasty, women attached great importance to the styling of their heads. The hairstyles of this period were rich and varied, maintaining traditional elements from previous eras while incorporating innovative features.
The changes in women’s hairstyles during this period not only represented fashion trends but also became cultural symbols that showed the beauty of women and the prosperity of society.
Yunduo Ji (云朵髻)
Yunduo Ji (Cloud Bun) was a well-accepted hairstyle during the Tang Dynasty.
The main feature of Yunduo Ji is its shape, which is light and fluffy like a cloud, giving it a sense of softness and airy elegance. This style is skillfully braided and twisted to create cloud-like layers and a three-dimensional effect.
In ancient societies, this hairstyle was worn mainly by aristocrats, upper-class women, members of the court and royal family, and women of wealthy merchant and scholar families.
Kong Que Kai Ping Ji (孔雀开屏髻)
Kong Que Kai Ping Ji (Peacock Tail Bun) originated in the Sui and Tang Dynasties and was named for its resemblance to a peacock’s spread tail.
This bun is combed when women style their hair into a fan shape, spread outward like a peacock’s feathers when it displays its tail, creating an ornate and visually striking look.
This hairstyle was trendy among the ancient nobility and upper classes, as it highlights a woman’s noble temperament and symbolizes wealth and good fortune.
Yuanhuan Zhui Ji (圆环椎髻)
Originating in the Tang Dynasty, Yuanhuan Zhui Ji (Circular Bun) was one of the most common hairstyles for court ladies and noble women of that time.
When wearing a Yuanhuan Zhui Ji, a woman would tie her hair with a silk ribbon and then gradually twist it into a ring shape that towers over her head. This process required solid skills and patience to ensure the stability and beauty of the bun. At the same time, wigs or other accessories are sometimes used to promote the height and stability of the bun.
Paojia Ji (抛家髻)
Paojia Ji is a traditional hairstyle for women in ancient China, usually associated with special occasions such as farewells and marriages. This hairstyle gained popularity in the imperial court and later spread to the general public.
The distinctive feature of this bun is that the hair at the temples is placed close to the cheeks, giving it a face-hugging shape. At the top of the head, the bun is usually rolled into one or more high buns and tilted to one side.
This chignon was favored by aristocratic women in the prosperous Tang Dynasty and the mid and late Tang Dynasty. It is still retained by Dan characters in Beijing Opera today.
Shuangdao Ji (双刀髻)
Shuangdao Ji (The Double Knife Bun), as the name suggests, is two high buns shaped like knives. This hairstyle was very popular in the early Tang Dynasty.
Shuangdao Ji is made by pulling the hair up and securing it at the top of the head, folding it into a double-knife shape, and finally adding glittering gold headpieces. This bun is elegant and dynamic and looks exceptionally luxurious.
Aristocratic women preferred this bun than ordinary women.
Chaotian Ji (朝天髻)
Chaotian Ji began in the Five Dynasties period and was created by Li Yanniang (李艳娘), a concubine of Meng Chang(孟昶), the king of the Later Shu Dynasty. This hairstyle was well-received in the Song Dynasty and was used by women of all social classes, making it one of the most representative high buns of the time.
When styling the bun, a woman brushes her hair neatly, pulls it up, secures it at the top of her head, and rolls it into a high bun. To ensure stability, hairpins or other accessories may be used to hold the bun in place and for beauty.
Yuan Ji (圆髻)
Yuan Ji (Round Bun) can be traced back to the Sui, Tang, and Five Dynasties, and it was a trendy hairstyle among women at that time. Since then, the bun has appeared and evolved in many dynasties, such as the Qing Dynasty, when Manchu women wore a similar hairstyle.
The main feature of Yuan Ji is that the hair is styled into a high, rounded bun that resembles a mound or ball. In this style, the hair is usually gathered at the top or slightly behind the head and then rolled into a tight circular structure.
Yuan Ji was typically worn by girls from humble families, symbolizing their simplicity in life. Some wealthy families also adorned their Yuan Ji hairstyle with various ornaments such as pearls and jade to enhance their beauty and sophistication.
#4 Song Dynasty
In the early Song Dynasty, women’s hairstyles were mainly inherited from the late Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties, but overall, they were more elegant and natural.
In the late Song Dynasty, women’s hairstyles became diverse, varied, and highly distinctive, reflecting the social prosperity.
Liusu Ji (流苏髻)
Liusu Ji (Tasseled Bun) gained popularity in the late Northern Song Dynasty.
Women style this bun by first securing it, leaving some hair on both sides, and then wrapping the hair of the roots into ribbons to allow the hair to naturally fall to the shoulders, creating a sense of delicate beauty.
In modern times, Liusu Ji is commonly used in historical dramas, stage performances, and special occasions such as weddings.
Longrui Ji (龙蕊髻)
Longrui Ji originated in the Song Dynasty. It is elegant and emphasizes femininity.
The distinctive feature of this hairstyle is its large bun. After styling the hair into a bun, women usually adorned it with colorful ribbons, which resemble two intertwining dragons from a distance.
With its sophisticated styling process and the sense of magnificence, Longrui Ji was widely accepted by women from the noble class or those on formal occasions in the court, like grand ceremonies. This bun represents both beauty and high social status. Longrui Ji has also become a classical hairstyle of upper-class women in ancient operas.
Bao Ji (包髻)
Bao Ji (Wrapped Bun) first appeared in the Song Dynasty and continued to be widely accepted during the Ming and Qing Dynasties. It was one of the daily hairstyles of ancient Han Chinese women.
It is simple to wear this bun, but solid skills are required.
Firstly, women must comb their hair into the desired bun shape and then wrap it with fabric such as colored silk or silk cloth. In the wrapping process, they then employ various techniques to turn fashion fabric into flower or cloud shapes, thereby promoting the allure of the hairstyle.
The wrapped bun can also be decorated with flowers, jewelry and other decorations to make the hairstyle more beautiful.
#5 Yuan Dynasty
While inheriting women’s hairstyles in the Song Dynasty, the Yuan Dynasty witnessed more diversified and distinctive female hairstyles. Buns like Yun Ji, high buns, Tongxin Ji, and Chaotian Ji in the Song Dynasty were still favored by Yuan women.
Females in the Yuan Dynasty maintained the delicacy and elegance of Song female buns and integrated new cultural elements of their era into them.
As Mongols founded the Yuan Dynasty, their traditions also affected their hair bun styles. For instance, women in the Yuan Dynasty integrated features of Zhui Ji that were popular among women and braided hairstyles worn by girls into their bun designs.
Moreover, Yuan women also enriched the diversity of buns by adding cultural elements of different ethics groups like Han people and Xiongnu people in the Western Regions.
#6 Ming Dynasty
Women’s hairstyles in the Ming Dynasty were more conservative than those of the earlier periods, with Shu Ji (束髻) being a representative. Shu Ji was a neatly combed and tied-up hairstyle coiled into various shapes on the top or back of the head. Many other hairstyles were based on this basic bun.
In addition to Shu Ji, several other hairstyles were popular in the Ming Dynasty, such as the Shuangluo Ji and the Jiafa Ji (Wig). Each hairstyle had its own characteristics, offering women more choices.
Mudan Ji (牡丹髻)
Mudan Ji (Peony Bun) is a high-bun hairstyle that originated in the late Ming Dynasty and was mainly used to emphasize the social status of women. This hairstyle can reach up to seven inches in height, symbolizing longevity and dignity.
To create Peony Bun, women gather all their hair to the top of the head, secure it with a ribbon or headband, divide the hair into sections, roll each section upward, and finally fix it with hairpins or other accessories. This hairstyle appears tall and voluminous, resembling a peony blossom in full bloom.
Although Mudan Ji looks opulent, this thick hairstyle restricts movement. Therefore, it is more common in formal occasions than folklore.
Tiaoxin Ji (挑心髻)
Tiaoxin Ji is a traditional Chinese women’s hairstyle of the Ming Dynasty, which originated during the reign of Emperor Jiajing.
Tiaoxin Ji is worn by combing the bun into a flat round shape and decorating the bun top with jewelry such as pearls, jadeite, and gemstones. These ornaments are colorful and shiny, adding a lot of lusters to the whole bun.
#7 Qing Dynasty
Women’s hairstyles during the Qing Dynasty were diverse, encompassing both the traditional hairstyles of Han women and the distinctive hairstyles of Manchu women.
Han Chinese women in the early Qing Dynasty mostly followed the hairstyles of the Ming Dynasty, such as Jiu Ji (鬏髻), Tiaoxin Ji, and Edanxin Ji (鹅蛋心髻). These hairstyles continued to be popular in the Qing Dynasty and gradually evolved.
However, Manchu Women preferred their unique hairstyles by wrapping and coiling hair into an updo, such as Xiao Liang Ba Tou (小两把头) and Da La Chi (大拉翅). Instead of combing their hair on the top, these women tried to style it at the back of their heads, demonstrating an integration of Man and Han Cultures. Their hairstyles represented a fashion trend and the essence of the Chinese traditional culture.
Xiao Liang Ba Tou (小两把头)
Xiao Liang Ba Tou is a traditional hairstyle of Manchu women in the Qing Dynasty, particularly popular from the mid to late Qing Dynasty.
Women styled this kind of bun by dividing their hair into two sections, on the left and right, and then combing these two strands upwards and securing them at the top of the head with a hairpin or hairband to form two relatively small buns.
In the Qing Dynasty, Xiao Liang Ba Tou was initially designed to facilitate the daily work of court ladies and concubines of lower status. However, as the court culture evolved, this style gradually became a fashion trend and was adopted by women of higher status.
Qi Tou (旗头)
As a unique traditional hairstyle of Manchu women in the Qing Dynasty, Qi Tou was widely received among the court and nobility in the middle and late Qing Dynasty.
Qi Tou is created by a skillful bun technique, in which the hair is raised high on the head and skillfully secured to a wide stand shaped like a fan or crescent. This stand is usually made of hard materials such as wire or bamboo gabions, and the outer layer is wrapped in black or dark satin or silk, making it both dignified and ornate. The sides of the hair are inlaid with jewelry, flowers, jade, and other magnificent decorations, emphasizing the wearers’ noble status.
Qi Tou is an essential element of Manchu women’s daily dress and a symbol of Manchu culture and identity, reflecting the elegance and modesty of Qing women.
Bang Zhu Tou (蚌珠头)
Bang Zhu Tou was a prevalent hairstyle among women of various ethnic groups in ancient China, especially during the late Qing Dynasty.
This hairstyle is made by combing a bun on both sides of the head, and its shape is similar to the pearl in the shell to be exposed. Women also often used jadeite, hairpins, and other jewelry to decorate the bun to enhance the sense of beauty.
Bang Zhu Tou was typically favored by unmarried girls, showcasing a unique sense of youthful innocence and beauty.
Summary
In the long course of history, the hairstyles of ancient Chinese women have demonstrated the diversity of beauty and witnessed the changes of times and the integration of cultures. By exploring these hairstyles, we can get a glimpse of the pursuit of beauty and the evolution of aesthetics of the ancients and feel the culture, identity, and emotions that these hairstyles carry. These hairstyles are not only a microcosm of history but also a living embodiment of the spirit of the women of that time.
Footnote:
- Buyao (步摇): a famous Chinese female hair ornament characterized by the decoration of carved designs and jewelry dangling when women were walking. ↩︎
- Western regions (西域): the areas west of ancient China, including parts of Central Asia, such as present-day Xinjiang, Kazakhstan, and surrounding regions. ↩︎