The 8 Most Popular Embroideries in China

Embroidery, a traditional folk handicraft with a history of nearly 3,000 years in China, uses needle and thread to create decorative patterns on fabric.

In traditional Chinese embroidery, the “Four Great Embroideries”—Su Embroidery (Suzhou), Xiang Embroidery (Hunan), Shu Embroidery (Sichuan), and Yue Embroidery (Guangdong)—are recognized as the pinnacle of Chinese embroidery craftsmanship. Understanding these four regional styles is essential for appreciating the richness and depth of Chinese embroidery culture.

However, China’s vast territory and long history have also nurtured many other distinctive local embroidery traditions. These include Bian Embroidery (Kaifeng), Jing Embroidery (Beijing), Lu Embroidery (Shandong), Ou Embroidery (Wenzhou), Hang Embroidery (Hangzhou), and Min Embroidery (Fujian). Together, they contribute to the remarkable diversity and regional characteristics of Chinese embroidery art.

These styles gain popularity all over China, forming an important part of traditional Chinese craftsmanship and hailed as cultural treasures of the Chinese nation.

Comparison of the 4 Great Embroideries of China

China boasts a rich variety of embroidery styles, each with unique techniques. This article discusses eight major embroidery traditions, but a special focus will the Four Great Embroideries due to space limitations and their prominent historical heritage, artistic value, and representativeness.

Suzhou embroidery is renowned for its exquisite craftsmanship, Hunan embroidery for its subtle elegance, Shu embroidery for its delicate refinement, and Cantonese embroidery for its vibrant splendor. Together, they reflect a profound integration of regional culture and embroidery aesthetics.

The table below provides a brief comparison of the Four Great Embroideries in terms of style, technique, and subject matter, aiming to help readers better understand the core characteristics of traditional Chinese embroidery art.

1. Shu Embroidery (蜀绣; Sichuan)

Shu Embroidery, ranked first among the four famous Chinese embroideries, is one of the nation’s intangible cultural heritage treasures and is praised as the “Pearl of Oriental Art.”

Also known as “Chuan Embroidery (川绣),” it is a traditional Chinese craft that uses silk threads to stitch patterns onto silk or other fabrics. Shu Embroidery is mainly divided into two schools: Western Sichuan (川西) and Eastern Sichuan (川东).

With a long history dating back to the ancient Shu period, since the Eastern Jin Dynasty, it has been renowned alongside Shu brocade (a category of famous brocade in Sichuan province, China) as a “treasure of Shu.”

As one of China’s oldest embroidery traditions, Shu embroidery is renowned for its bright and elegant colors and exquisite and delicate needlework, which creates its unique charm.

Shu embroidery features an exceptionally rich variety of stitching techniques, encompassing over 12 major categories and more than 130 distinct methods, surpassing the other three famous embroideries. Moreover, Shu embroidery utilizes over 70 unique types of brocade threads, which are absent in other embroidery styles.

Common stitches include shading, laying, edge, split, mixed, sand, and cover stitches. These techniques require neat stitches, smooth thread lines, and an embroidered surface that is both dense and soft, with every stitch executed to perfection.

What sets Shu embroidery apart is its remarkable flexibility in combining various stitching methods according to different patterns and desired effects. For example, some patterns and effects derive from alternating thick and thin stitches, while others derive from solid and void stitches. Skillfully mixing different stitches and colors presents patterns with a vivid sense of depth and layering.

The embroidery methods are also highly adaptable, allowing for the use of various fabrics such as silk, satin, silk gauze, and crepe, depending on specific requirements. Each piece varies in its production process, color scheme, and thread selection, entirely tailored to the desired design. This flexibility enables Shu embroidery to produce a wide array of patterns.

Shu embroidery excels not only in delicately portraying flowers, birds, insects, and fish, but also in capturing majestic landscapes with grandeur. Even more impressive is its ability to render lifelike and expressive human figures. Whether it’s intricate fine brushwork or expansive scenes, Shu embroidery masters them all effortlessly—this is its true charm!

2. Su Embroidery (苏绣; Suzhou)

Su embroidery is one of the four most renowned styles of Chinese embroidery.  Recognized as a National Intangible Cultural Heritage and praised as the “Crown of Embroidery”, Suzhou embroidery refers to embroidered products that originated in the Suzhou region and belong to the category of traditional folk art in Suzhou, Jiangsu Province. It traces its roots back more than 2,000 years to the legendary embroidered garments made by Lady Red (女红), the granddaughter of Zhong Yong (仲雍; The second monarch of the State of Wu, which was a vassal state during the Zhou Dynasty in ancient China).

The primary material of Suzhou embroidery is silk thread, with great emphasis on color coordination and meticulous detail. Its craftsmanship can be summarized by eight key features: flat (平; smooth embroidery surface), neat (齐; even stitches), fine (细; delicate threads), dense (密; closely arranged stitches), harmonious (和; balanced colors), smooth (顺; flowing silk), bright (光; vivid sheen), and uniform (匀; consistent stitching).

To bring different designs to life, artisans employ a variety of stitches and threads, including satin and outline stitches, jacquard techniques, and couching, thus creating works with flowing lines and lifelike, intricate patterns.

One of the most iconic techniques in Suzhou embroidery is double-sided embroidery, where different images are embroidered on both sides of the same piece of fabric, producing a stunning dual visual effect. The subjects of Suzhou embroidery are diverse, encompassing scenes from everyday life, nature, mythology, literature, and history. From portraits, flowers, and birds to landscapes and architecture, each piece showcases embroiderers’ boundless imagination and exquisite craftsmanship.

3. Xiang embroidery (湘绣; Hunan)

Hunan embroidery, also known as Xiang embroidery, is one of the Four Great Embroideries of China and is recognized as a national intangible cultural heritage. It has even been chosen as a “national gift” to represent Chinese culture. Rooted in folk embroidery traditions and centered in Changsha, Hunan Province, Xiang embroidery gradually developed its distinctive artistic styles by incorporating the finest elements of Suzhou and Guangdong embroidery.

Renowned for its vivid imagery, brilliant colors, spiritual expressiveness, and dynamic balance between motion and stillness, Xiang embroidery is often described by the saying: “Flowers embroidered seem fragrant, birds embroidered seem to sing, tigers embroidered appear to run, and people embroidered come alive with spirit.”

A hallmark of Xiang embroidery lies in its unique silk thread preparation. According to traditional methods, craftsmen first steam soap pods and then use bamboo sheaths to gently rub the threads. This meticulous treatment reduces fraying, leaving the threads smoother and shinier. This technique mirrors the traditional Suzhou practice of smoothing embroidery surfaces with saliva.

Traditionally, there are 72 stitch types in Xiang embroidery, classified into five main categories: flat, weaving, mesh, button, and knot embroideries. Over time, the craft has evolved, introducing innovative stitches such as shaggy stitch and random stitch embroidery. Modern works even feature double-sided embroidery with completely different colors, patterns, and textures on each side.

With a rich palette and diverse techniques, Hunan embroiderers create intricate works depicting figures, animals, landscapes, flowers, and birds. In folk traditions, the phrase “Su cats, Xiang tigers” highlights the realism and excellence of each regional style. In particular, Xiang embroidery’s lion and tiger fur patterns are so vivid and lifelike that they are considered masterpieces of Chinese arts and crafts.

4. Yue Embroidery (粤绣; Guangdong / Canton)

Cantonese embroidery, known as Yue embroidery, is one of China’s Four Great Embroideries and recognized as a national intangible cultural heritage. It collectively refers to the embroidery traditions of Guangzhou (Guang embroidery) and Chaozhou (Chao embroidery), with origins dating back to the Tang Dynasty. Yue embroidery is famed for its diverse stitching techniques and distinctive textures, which have shaped its unique artistic style.

Guang embroidery (广绣), centered in Guangzhou and the Pearl River Delta, originated from local ethnic minorities and developed its distinctive style during the mid-to-late Ming Dynasty. It is notable for its rich selection of materials, including silk and floss threads and rare elements such as twisted peacock feathers, horsehair-wrapped velvet, and gold threads that outline patterns, giving the embroidery a striking three-dimensional and lustrous quality.

This style is characterized by full, balanced compositions, vivid and expressive motifs, and the skillful use of “reserved waterways”—small gaps left between design elements to create visual harmony. The embroidery demands exceptional fineness, with careful attention to color, light, and shadow effects.

In contrast, Chao embroidery (潮州绣) from the Chaozhou region is known for its brilliant, bold, and majestic effects created by pad-convex relief gold couching embroidery. It features smooth, glossy threads and warm, festive colors, producing rich and magnificent artistic expressions. Chao embroidery involves a variety of techniques such as velvet embroidery, gold couching, mixed gold and velvet embroidery, and thread embroidery, each with its unique characteristics. A celebrated masterpiece of Chao embroidery is “A Hundred Birds Paying Homage to the Phoenix.”

Whether it is the elegant and delicate Guang embroidery or the vibrant and bold Chao embroidery, both forms constitute important parts of Yue embroidery. Together, they seamlessly blend exquisite craftsmanship with unique artistic expression, highlighting the distinct charm of Cantonese embroidery.

5. Bian Embroidery (汴绣; Kaifeng, Henan)

Bian embroidery is one of the Eight popular embroideries of China and a recognized national intangible cultural heritage. Also known as Song embroidery, it originates from Kaifeng City, Henan Province, with a history of over 1,400 years.

Bian embroidery features its simple and elegant forms, clear patterns, smooth lines, and bright colors. Renowned for its delicacy, richness, and exquisite craftsmanship, it is often used to embroider imperial court scenes and figures. The technique emphasizes the flexible use of threads of varying thicknesses and designs that are carefully tailored to different materials, themes, and colors.

Initially featuring around a dozen types of stitches, Bian embroidery has evolved to include more than forty stitch varieties, such as qi needle (even stitch), cross stitch, meng needle, pin, irregular, rolling, and lock edge stitches. These diverse stitches enrich Bian embroidery’s expressive capabilities, allowing it to vividly depict a wide range of subjects.

Bian embroidery excels in portraying traditional themes like flowers, birds, insects, fish, and animals. Its works are lifelike and expressive, with meticulous and skillful stitching and elegant and understated colors, making them treasures of embroidery art.

One of its most famous masterpieces is the embroidered version of the classic painting Along the River During the Qingming Festival (清明上河图). This piece perfectly captures the bustling scenes of the original artwork, vividly renders details of figures, architecture, boats, and carriages, and demonstrates exceptional skill in depicting complex scenes and subtle emotions.

Another classic work is the Nine Songs embroidery (九歌图), which vividly recreates ancient myths and legends with delicate stitching and rich colors, displaying Bian embroidery’s unique charm in representing traditional cultural themes.

Whether portraying the grand narrative of Along the River During the Qingming Festival or the delicate scenes of Nine Songs, Bian embroidery, with its unique artistic style and superb craftsmanship, stands as a treasure in the realm of traditional Chinese embroidery art.

6. Jing Embroidery (京绣; Beijing)

Beijing embroidery is one of China’s “Eight Masterpieces of Yanjing (燕京八绝)” and an important part of the country’s intangible cultural heritage. Also known as Palace Embroidery, it refers to embroidered products centred in Beijing that flourished during the Ming and Qing dynasties and were mainly used for court decoration. Beijing embroidery is renowned for its exquisite materials, standardised designs, and meticulous techniques.

It is extremely meticulous in colour matching, using brightly coloured threads similar to the pastel and enamel colours found in porcelain.

In terms of the flatness, fineness, evenness, and glossiness of the embroidered surface, Beijing embroidery even surpasses Suzhou embroidery. It inherits the essence of Suzhou embroidery, including Even Needle, Whirling Needle, Setting Needle, Shiqi Embroidery, Rolling Needle Embroidery, Cutting Needle Embroidery, and Flat Gold Embroidery. Guided by royal aesthetics and strict norms, Beijing embroidery has developed a unique and rigorous system of techniques.

Colour matching is one of the most important features of Beijing embroidery. In traditional Chinese culture, green, white, yellow, red, and black are considered the five primary colours. Therefore, Beijing embroidery is further subdivided into the five upper colours (red, green, yellow, white, and black) and the five lower colours (purple, lake blue, blue, pink, and incense colour). Each of these rich colours has its significance: yellow symbolises authority, red festivity, and blue nobility.

The patterns of Beijing embroidery adhere to the principle that “pictures must be intentional and meanings auspicious”, expressing wishes for good fortune and luck, as well as the intention to drive away evil spirits and avoid evil through harmonisation, syncretism, and substitution. For instance, the lotus flower symbolises purity and integrity, mandarin ducks represent love, butterflies signify fertility, and cranes symbolise longevity.

As an essential part of traditional Chinese culture, Beijing embroidery is highly regarded for its unique artistic style, strong decorative features, exquisite techniques, and rich colours. It is also a highly sought-after collectible.

7. Lu Embroidery (鲁绣; Shandong)

Lu embroidery is a traditional embroidery craft from the Shandong region, renowned for its distinctive Qilu cultural (Qilu, “齐鲁” in Chinese, a synonym of Shandong Province, China) style and characteristics. It combines various exquisite techniques such as drawing, tightening, locking, and carving, and is particularly skilled at replicating the brushstroke effects of Chinese calligraphy and ink painting.

The embroidery threads are typically brightly coloured, tightly twisted double-strand cotton threads, while the backing fabric is usually a dark-patterned textile. The colours are elegant and restrained, the compositions graceful with a balanced interplay of solid and void, and the images lifelike, all showing a unique artistic charm.

Over thousands of years of inheritance and development, Lu embroidery has gradually evolved into dozens of types, including hairline, garment thread, cloud dragon, earth dragon, and carved flat stitches.

Among these, hairline stitch is regarded as the ultimate representative of Lu embroidery, celebrated for its refined simplicity, realistic texture, and a subtle combination of roughness and delicacy, fully showcasing the crafts’ superb skill.

Lu embroidery conveys rich themes, mostly featuring popular folk stories, flowers, birds, and animals, with traditional ink painting embroideries being a particular highlight. Viewed from a distance, its embroideries closely resemble real paintings; up close, they reveal exquisite details through intricate needlework and subtle colour treatment.

For example, “Confucius Lecturing (孔子讲学图)” is a classic work vividly portraying Confucius and his disciples with varied expressions, perfectly recreating an ancient teaching scene and demonstrating the embroidery’s excellence in depicting figures.

The long-standing Qilu culture endows Lu embroidery with strong local characteristics and rich humanistic connotations. It is not only the crystallization of the wisdom of the people of Shandong but also a vital representative of the outstanding traditional culture of the Chinese nation.

8. Ou Embroidery (瓯绣; Wenzhou, Zhejiang)

Wenzhou embroidery, also known as “Ou embroidery,” is a traditional embroidery craft that gradually evolved from decorating everyday household items. It is primarily produced in Wenzhou City and the surrounding areas of Zhejiang Province. Renowned for its concise yet elegant composition, vibrant colours, precise stitching, flexible needlework, and distinct embroidery techniques, Ou embroidery features a glossy surface that fully reflects the unique regional cultural characteristics of Wenzhou.

Early Ou embroidery works mainly consisted of god robes, opera costumes, and birthday screens. Over time, it covers landscapes, figures, animals, and calligraphy, demonstrating high ornamental value and decorative appeal.

Ou embroidery is not only used in gifts, hand embroidery, and clothing but is also deeply integrated into the lives of the Wenzhou people — from weddings and daily necessities to festivals and religious ceremonies on items ranging from shoes and socks to table curtains, military armor, and theatrical costumes.

One of the representative masterpieces of Ou embroidery is The Twelve Golden Maidens of the Red Chamber (红楼十二金钗), which vividly depicts the unique temperament and spirit of the twelve female characters from Dream of the Red Chamber (红楼梦) through delicate needlework and rich colours. Each maiden is lifelike, with finely detailed clothing and facial expressions, fully demonstrating Ou embroidery’s high level of skill in character portrayal.

Another notable work is Water and Moon Goddess of Mercy, which uses intricate stitching and gentle colours to vividly express the solemnity and compassion of the Goddess of Mercy, representing a pinnacle of Ou embroidery in religious themes.

The long-standing Qilu culture has endowed Ou embroidery with strong local characteristics and rich cultural connotations. It is not only a craft but also a cultural heritage and an artistic creation, embodying the Wenzhou people’s pursuit of a better life and their dedication to preserving traditional culture.

Chinese silk embroidery is a unique cultural tapestry, using needle and thread as brushes to weave magnificent artistic masterpieces that convey the depth of history and the wisdom of the people. These exquisite embroideries are not only works of art but also legends full of emotion and tradition, vividly showcasing the rich, colourful, and diverse spiritual world of the Chinese nation.